Manufacture of shoes



1931 J. H. RICHARDSON ET AL 1, 33,953 I MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed May 25, 1927 28 v I I //WENTUR5 0% yin fwm Patented Dec. 1, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE JOHN E RICHARDSON, or MELROSE, AND LEROY w. ROLLINS, or MEDFORD, mssncrrm SETTS, ASSIGNORS 'ro UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A oonroimynoN or NEW JERSEY i MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Application filed May 23,

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and more particularly to the production of shoes the bottoms of which are characterized by great flexibility.

In the manufacture of certain kinds of shoes of the type in which the outsole is-attached directly to the margin of the upper "assist in maintaining the shape of the shoe during wear and afford adequate anchorage for the fastenings which hold the upper in lasted position as well as for the through-andthrough stitches by which the outsole, upper and insole are held together. Objects of this invention are to provide improvements in shoe manufacture with particular reference :to these requirements.

fibrous material such as canvas.

To this end the invention, in one aspect, provides a novel insole comprising a thin, flexible base member and a relatively stiff strip of material secured to the margin of the base member. The strip is preferably composed of fibrous material to f afford strength and non-fibrous, amorphous material to provide stiffness. As illustrated, the strip is composed of a layer of non-fibrous, resilient material such as sheet celluloid and a The canvas preferably forms the outer layer and has its inner face friction coated to adhere to the celluloid. The base member is of relatively thin material but has suflicient strength laterally to resist the outward pull of the lasted up per. The fibre strip stiffened with cellulosic material, which preferably extends from the breast line along the shank and around the forepart to the breast line again, opposes suffioient resistance to the strain of the last ing fastenings so that the tension on the upper is retained until the outsole is applied. When the shoe is worn the shape of the last is retained because the strip, with the other portions of the shoe bottom, is made to correspond accurately to the shape of the last bottom and has sufilcient rigidity against 1927. Serial No. 193,675.

bending upwardly away from the adjacent face of the sole, in response to the ,pull of the upper, so that the shapeliness of the shoe lmparted to it in lasting is permanently retained. 5

The shank portion of the insole is preferably stiffened and given the proper shape by a shank piece made, for example, of vulcanized fibre or leatherboard having the rear portion shaped to cover the heel-seat and the shank portion reduced in width to lie between the seams holding the composite strip to the shank portion of the insole. To the shank portion of the illustrated shank piece is secured a steel shank stiffener which is initially curved to correspond to the required longitudinal curvature of the shank portion of a last and, after it is attached to the shank piece and the shank piece is attached to the insole, causes the shank portion of the insole to assume the longitudinal curvature characteristic of a molded insole.

In the use of the illustrated insole, the upl per is lasted over and secured, as by staples, to the composite strip and a filler is provided at the forepart of the shoe the margin of which is preferably skived to extend under the composite strip and under the forward end of the shank piece. An outsole is laid on the shoe and attached by through-andthrough stitches which pass through the outsole, the composite strip and the base' layer of the insole. This base layer may be made of Canton flannel with its fleece side inner most and having its outer surface friction coated to assist in securing the shank piece and filler. The outsole-attaching stitches will then sink into the soft inner surface of the insole and the entire bottom of the insole may be covered with the usual sock lining.

In other aspects the invention provides a novel method of shoe manufacture including the use of an insole stiffened at its margin by cellulosic material, for example, in the manner herein set forth, and also a novel shoe having such an insole incorporated therein.

Referring to the drawings,- Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the completed insole showing the lower surface;

Fig. 2 is an exploded view, in perspective,

. layer 12 of sheet celluloid or other non-fishowing the parts which make up the insole;

Fig. 3 is a perspective View, partly in section, showing the insole upona last and the upper being lasted and secured to it; and

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary sectional view of the completed shoe.

Referring to Fig. 2 of the drawings, it will be seen that the first layer of the insole consists of a base layer 10 having the shape of a complete insole. This layer preferably consists of Canton or cotton flannel fabric, the fleece side being next to the last bottom and the outer side being covered with a rubber or gutta percha composition such as is used in the manufacture of friction-coated fabric. About the shank and forepart of this first layer 10 is seweda lasting lip comprising a composite strip of material made up of a brous, resilient material and a layer 14 of friction-coated canvas. The strips of celluloid and canvas are first died out in approximately the required shape and are caused to adhere together by reason of the friction coating. The composite strip is then applied in a substantially undistorted condition to the base member or layer and the outer edge of the composite strip is sewed by a seam 16 to the edge of the layer '10 and extends about the shank and forepart of the sole from breast line to breast line,forming a lip to which the upper may be secured. Under the strip 12, 14, from the ball line forwardly, a filler 1-8 is inserted, this filler consisting preferably of a properly shaped piece of felt having the margins which extend under the strip skived 1y equal off. A shank piece 20 extends from the heelseat to the ball line, this piece being preferably made of material such as leather-board or fibreboard, the rear ortion covering the heel-seat and the shan portion being reduced in width so as to fit 16 holding the shank portions of the strip 12', 14. A metal shank stiffener 22 may be secured to the shank piece 20. In order to secure in the insole the shape and effect of a molded insole, the shank sti'fl'ener is given the required longitudinal curvature so that when secured to the shank piece the shank piece will be given the proper shape, which shape will be imparted to the insole when the shank piece and stiffener are secured to it. At the heel-seat a piece 24 of friction-coated canvas is secured to the shank iece 20, this piece 24 being preferably of a thickness approximateto that of the composite strip 12, 14.

In the use of this insole, as illustrated, in its application to the manufacture of McKay sewed shoes, it is applied to the bottom of a last 26 as usual and an upper 28 is assembled thereon. The shoe may be pulled over as usual and the heel and toe lasted upon a bed machine, the u per at the heel-seat being wiped in and fastened by tacks extending hold in place the ,chine such as that disclosed in United tates Letters Patent N 0. 1,731,855, granted October 15, 1929, on application of George Goddu, is employed. In the use of this machine the upper will be tightly lasted by a gripper 30, and, while control the upper 28 is maintained by a staple nozzle 32 and the to the strip 12, 14. About' the strip 12, 14 affords a firm gripper 30, a staple 34 will be inserted through v composite strip 12, 14 and clenched by a channel guide and anvil 36 upon the underside of the strip. An outsole 38 is then laid and the outsole, upper, composite stri and the underlying layers 10, 18 are secure together by through-and-through stitching 40, as is usual in the manufacture of shoes of the McKay type. These stitches will sink intothe soft fleece surface of the base layer 10 and may be covered by a slip-sole 42," the nap surface and felt filler forming a cushion for the forepart of the foot.

The resulting shoe has an extremely flexible forepart, a sufficiently stifi" shank portion molded to the longitudinal curve of the shank, and enough substance or material at the heelseat portion to hold the lasting tacks, heelseat nails and heel nails. At the same time the strip 12,-14 serves, because of its stiffness the upper and against bending about an axis extending in the direction of its length and because its edge corresponds to the shape of the last, to part ofthe upper extending hence maintains the shape of the insole and the overlasted upper in correspondence with the shape of the last, not only during the process of manufacture, but also afterward,

with the result that the trim contour and shapeliness of the shoe are retained during wear. Furthermore, the composite strip is sufficiently rigid against bending its own plane, being supported by the base layer 10, to prevent loss 0 tension of the lasted upper which is stapled to it, and its thickness, together with other portions of the insole, affords firm hold for the through-and-through stitches which secure the insole, upper and outsole together. At the same time the insole is extremel flexible to bending in the longitudinal me ian plane'of the shoe, that is, in the direction in which it is bent when worn. Having thus described our invention, what We claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is: 1. An insole comprising a fabric base havmg its outer face friction-coated, a felt filler covering the forepart of the base, and a fibre shank piece covering the shank and rear part.

2. An insole comprising a fabric base having its outer face friction-coated, a felt filler covering the forepart of the base, a fibre shank piece covering the shank and rear part, and a lasting strip secured to the base at the outer edges of the base and strip.

' 3. An insole comprising a base layer and a two-ply flat strip comprising a canvas layer and a celluloid layer, said strip being narrower than the base layer and secured to the margin thereof.

4. insole comprising a base layer and a narr W'strip of celluloid secured to said base ab ut its periphery and forming a stiff lip to which the upper may be secured in lasting.

5. An insole-comprising a fabric base hav-- ing a friction-coated outer surface, a forepart filler, a shank piece frictioned to said base, and a lip'to which the upper is to be secured in lasting formed by a stiff strip sewed to the margin of the base.

6. An insole comprising a fabric base cov ering the bottom of the last, a fibre layer covering the shank and heel-seat, and a fabric layer covering the heel-seat of the fibre layer, {he fabric layer being frictioned to the fibre ayer. 1

7. A composite insole comprising a thin and flexible base layer and a relatively stiff strip attached to'the base layer along the outer margins of the shank and for'epart of the base and at the outer edgeof the strip, the

strip being free from the base layer inwardly pf its outer edge and terminating at the breast 8. A composite insole comprising a thin and flexible base layer, a relatively stiff strip attached to the base layer along the outer margins of the shank and forepart of the base and strip, the strip being free from the base layer inwardly of its edge and terminating at the breast line, and a stifli'ener for the shank and heel-seat the shank portion of which lies beneath the attached strip.

9. An insole for use in shoes of the McKay type comprising a base layer to engage a last bottom, and a strip, to which the upper is to be secured in lasting, attached to ,the base iaygr, said strip being stiffened with cellu- 10. An insole for shoes having a stiff marginal portion formed of a separate piece of undistorted sheet material and a flexible interior portion, said mar inal portion being adapted when secured with the upper to an outsole to hold the upper against the outsole and to maintain the peripheral shape imparted to the upper in the lasting operation. 11. An insole for shoes having a marginal portion formed of a separate piece of undistorted sheet material sufiiciently stiff to prevent displacement of the over-lasted portion of the upper heightwise of the shoe, and a flexible interior portion, the insole as a whole being flexible longitudinally of 'the shoe.

. 12. An insole comprising a base member and a strip of material which is stiff rela- 7 tively to the base member secured to the base member along a line adjacent to the outer edges of the base member and the stripysaid strip comprising a layer of fibrous material and a layer of non-fibrous material secured together.

13. A composite insole comprising a thin and flexible base layer andv a strip stiffer than the base layer attached to the base layer along the outer margins of the forepart of the 8 V base and strip, the strip being free from the base layer inwardly of its edges and comprising separate layers secured together.

14:. A flexible, ribless, fabric insole\marginally reinforcedby attachment thereto of a separate piece of non-fibrous material.

15. A flexible, ribless insole for attach- 'ment to an upper and outsole by through-and through stitches having on its marginal portions only a stiff strip comprising fibrous material and cellulosic material.

by the needle of a machine for sewing through-and-through stitches. Y 19. A flexible insole having its margin only stifi'ened v with a stri composed of fibrous material and non-fi rous cellulosic' material.

20. An insole to which an apper and a outsole are to be attached by through-andthrough stitches having on its outer face a thickened marginal edge for receiving the upper'securing fastenings and on its inner face a soft nap surface in which the'throughand-through stitches may be embedded.

21. A lasted shoe comprising an insole pro- I vided with a lip stiffened by amorphous cellulosic material, and an upper fastened in lasted relation to the lip by metallic fastenings.

22. vA lasted shoe comprising an insole provided with a lip stiffened by non-fibrouscellulosic material-and an upper fastened in lasted re ation to the lip by staples clenched on the lip. v

23. A shoe comprising an insole having a layer of non-fibrous cellulosic material upon its margin, an upper overlying the cellulosic I36 material, and an outsole secured to the overlying portion of the upper and the insole by through-and-through stitches.

24. A shoe comprising an-insole having upon its marginal portion celluloid stiffening material, an upper overlying the celluloid stiffening material and secured to the insole by permanent metallicfastenings so driven as not to penetrate through the insole, and an outsole secured to the overlying portion of the upper. L I

.25. A shoe comprising an insole having upon its marginal portion celluloid stiflening material, an upper overlying the celluloid stifl'eningmaterial and secured to the insole by staples passing through the upper and the celluloidastifi'ening material, an outsole engaging the overlying portion of the upper, and stitches securing the outsole, up- 20 per, celluloid stiffening material and insole .together. 26. A shoe comprising an insole having upon its marginal portion a lip including celluloidv stiffening material,- an upper secured to the lip by staples passing through the upper and the lip, an outsole engaging the upper, and stitches securing the outsole lip, celluloid stiffening material and insole together.

27 That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing upon a'last an upper and an insole having on its marginal portion non-fibrous cellulosic material, lasting the upper over upon the cellulosic material, securing the upper in lasted position by staples, and thereafter applying an outsole and securing it to the shoe.

28. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing upon a last an upper and an insole having nonfibrous cellulosic material upon its marginal portion, lasting the upper over upon the cellulosic material, securing the upper in lasted position bv staples driven through the upper and cellulosiomaterial, and then applying and securing an outsole in any usual manner.

29. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing upon a last an upper and an insole, said insole be- 50 ing provided on'its marginal portion only with celluloid stifl'ening material, lasting the upper over upon the celluloid stiffening material, securing the upper in lasted position by staples, and securing an outsole to the overlasted upper. 30. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing upon a last an upper andan insole having nonfibrous cellulosic material upon its marginal portion, lastingthe upper over' upon the cellulosic material, securing the upper by staples to the insole, applying an outsole to the shoe, and attaching the out- 65 sole by through-and-through stitches passing through the outsole, upper, cellulosic material and insole.

31. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in providing upon a last an upper and an insole having nonfibrous cellulosic material upon its marginal portion, lasting the upper over upon the cellulosic material, applying an outsole to the shoe, and attaching the outsole by throughand-through stitches passing through the outsole, upper, cellulosic material and insole.

32. That improvement in methods ofniaking shoes which consists in providing upon a last an upper and an insole having nonfibrous cellulosic material upon its marginal portion, lasting the upper over upon the cellulosic material, securing the upper by metallic' fastenings so driven as not to penetrate through the insole, applying an outsole to the shoe, and attaching the outsole by throughand-through stitches passing through the outsole, upper, cellulosic material and insole.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification.

7 JOHN H. RICHARDSON.

r r LEROY W. ROLLINS. 

